Diving in the Desert

"Hard right! Slow Down! Remember the North South winds! We are heading south so it’s very dangerous! No not this way! Oh…O.K. you made it!"

I pull on the hand-brake and turn off the ignition as I arrive at the southern most tip of Qatar on the shores of the Inland Sea. We left the paved highway an hour ago and have been on shifting sands ever since. I now look out across the blue waters and through a shimmering heat haze to the distant Saudi Arabian coastline on the opposite side. I, and my Qatari compatriots, unload the scuba gear and my underwater camera from the 4WD and onto the awaiting dive boat. Boats have been banned from the Inland sea for several years now however, we have special permission and are heading out to some little known hiding places of the much prized Hammour grouper. A short, but beautiful boat ride later, passing breeding Ospreys, rolling sand dunes, temporary encampments and the shallow reefs we arrive at a secret location and the visibility looks good. I'm eager to get in the water but a little shocked as I roll in and find the water temp hovering around 20°C. Apparently I am a few months premature of the normal 28-33°C water temps and the weak winter Qatari sun has yet to warm up these shallow seas. I am passed my heavy camera and submerge with the cold biting at my exposed head and settle on the sandy seabed and take in my surroundings. As the bubbles clear I find myself looking towards a submerged rock the size of a small lorry covered in black-spot snappers and several good sized Hammour staring at me inquisitively.

I breathe out and the fish scatter.....mmmmmm....the fish here are a little skittish to say the least. I later find out that spear fishing is one of the main Qatari maritime hobbies, thus many of the surrounding prized marine fish have learnt to give bubble blowers and long armed fishers a wide berth. I quickly realize that perseverance and patience will play a major role over the next 2 weeks. My first dive ends with me passing up the camera with shivering hands and body after 90 minutes underwater, but I feel I have a measure of the underwater environment and my target creatures. I also have a few nice shots and over many much needed hot cups of local cardamom coffee and sweetened black tea I plan my next dives around the exact same location so that the fish get used to me and my non-aggressive posture or intentions.

After a few days of ever growing success and a visit from 3 heavily armed Saudi Arabian border patrol boats we move further north and inspect some of Qatar's most famous ship wrecks. The MO, or Iranian ship, wreck was purposefully sunk over a decade ago when it floated unexpectedly into Qatari waters followed by an Iranian navy vessel. Strangely enough the drifting vessel was found to be completely empty and without crew and therefore taken into Qatari custody. With no purpose or real value the 300ft ship was sunk on the barren seabed as an artificial reef some 100KM east of Doha. The wreck sits upright in 21m of water with its top structures rising up and offer easy mooring at around 6m. The sea was mirror flat and the visibility superb and I have to say it quickly became one of my most favourite wrecks. Literally covered in 100's of thousands of fish, mostly black-spot snapper, which shroud the wreck in a wavering living curtain the wreck is still in good condition and offers many swim through options and explorations into and out of its cavernous holds. Lying and hiding in the sand around its sides I found massive marble and butterfly stingrays as well as smaller whip rays and large Hammour peering out from between the propellers and metal debris. Kingfish, Queenfish, barracuda and a wide variety of trivially species roamed the open water around and above the wreck. Beautiful nudibranchs of white and orange were dotted all over - new species to me. Time drifted by as I look in and filmed in all directions from awesome wide angles showing the structure and schooling fish to the super macro of delicate sea-pens and stingray eyeballs. Once again no dive lasted less than 90 minutes and I often surfaced grinning like a little boy at Christmas only to have a few cups of hot coffee or tea, change batteries and head back down again.

During the last few days of the shoot we were given special permission by Qatar Petroleum and the Ministry of the Environment to dive around the restricted shores of Haloul Island. Protected for many years and access so restricted the island and its surrounding coral reefs and sandy sea floors have become a de-facto marine sanctuary with massive table corals spanning out giving refuge for Hammour, yet more thousands of black spot snapper, egg laying cuttlefish, massive cow-tail stingrays, Hawksbill Turtles, blacktip reef sharks but most impressively large schools of 6-8ft long Milk fish whose fins could often be seen breaking the surface like some mysterious shark. Once again I couldn't tear myself away and my 90 minute dives turned into 2 hour extravaganzas! Even with the filming trip extended by 5 extra days I was still left wanting more and I very much look forward to heading back very soon.

To all my new local "brothers" and friends who offered much more than just mere dive support I am honoured to have met you, invited into your homes and hearts - Essa, Fallah, Saud, Mohammed, Abdullah, Sallah and Salleh a thousand thank yous. Last but not least I must mention that it is always a real pleasure to work with new clients and film crews when you share so much of the same passion for life and professionalism in your work and so I say a big thank you to Lyndal, Chantelle, Morn and the rest of the Rock Wallaby Crew for a truly magic time and enjoyable shoot. I look forward to working with you all again - Insha’Allah!